Our first stop was the Mineral Museum at Baia Mare. it really was not that interesting and we did not stay for very long. The ext stop was the city centre, where we explored the former church, now just a citadel remains, called St. Stephen's Tower. The main square of Baia Mare had some interesting statues, but it looked just like any other city that we have visited. I began to wonder if Maramures would be just the same.
Next thing I knew, the bus was driving up steep curving sections of road high into the Carpathian Mountains. The scenery was stunning when there was a break in the trees. The going was slow and precarious, and as I had chosen to sit in the back of the bus, with each bump I came closer and closer to flying off the seat into the aisle.
We arrived at Pastravaria Alex "Happy Fish restaurant," a traditional Romanian restaurant. The restaurant spread across a wide area, with outdoor ponds of trout, beautifully carved tables, and the sound of falling water. We sat on the veranda of the main building of the restaurant looking out upon the ponds and other buildings. It was beautiful. Anita helped to explain the menu, as there were no English translations. The choice of soup was beef stomach soup and fish vegetable soup. For a main entree, there was grilled or fried trout or chicken. When the trout was served, the whole fish was on the plate with its beady eyes staring right at you. I still cannot eat items that look like they're living things. According to my peers, the fish was the freshest they've ever had.
One of the places I desperately wanted to visit since reading about it in my Rough Guide to Romania was Cimitirul Vesel (Merry Cemetery) in Sapanta. It did not disappoint. All of the grave markings were intricately carved and painted with personalized information about the deceased. I have always loved cemeteries and found this one to provide families with a proud death of their loved ones.
Next stop was Elie Wiesel's house, but unfortunately it was closed. We headed to Memorial Victimelor Comunismului si Rezisttentei in Sighet. I was really disappointed that there were no English translations at all in the museum. The former cells were converted into exhibits but I was unable to get much of a sense of what was being explained. The most moving part of the museum for me was the statues of prisoners in despair and naked in the main yard. It was a very powerful memorial.
When we went to leave, there was a bride having her picture taken. In Romania, weddings are really quite different. Usually on Saturdays, the couple goes to the municipal and gets the documents signed. Then, there's the wedding at the church. Afterwards, the couple take pictures in front of states and memorials in their village/city. The wedding party travels around in their cars with balloons and streamers attached to the door handles. They also incessantly honk the car horns as they drive. it's so beautiful that they preserve such traditions, and that they honour their ancestors on their wedding day.
The countryside of Maramures is stunning. The roads are shared between automobiles, horses, horse-drawn carriages, pedestrians, and bicyclists. The houses are made of wood, many intricately carved with beautiful designs. Many houses have a tree with pots all over the branches.
This means that there is a daughter in the home available for marriage. The more pots you have - the more money you have. I told Mallory that when she gets married, I'm going to put pots all over her front lawn.
We arrived at our accommodations - a pensiune/village homestay run by Maria. At the entrance to her home was a beautiful wooden carved gate.
Some stayed in the two houses by the gate while six of us stayed at Maria's cousin's house up the country lane at the back of Maria's estate.
Maria's cousin's house
The house was beautiful, decorated with handmade carpets, rugs, scarves, ceramics, and comforters. Mallory and I slept in the 70s porn room as I took to calling it - everything was bright and fuzzy! I was so happy that we were staying in a traditional Romanian homestay and not a western hotel.
Dinner was served in an outside open, but sheltered wooden structure. Across the courtyard, there were cows, horses, rabbit hutches, and a frog pond.
The first items served were plates of cheese, sausage, pork fat, cucumber and tomato. Large plates of freshly baked bread were also provided. The main course was plates of cabbage rolls (rice and pork/beef wrapped in cabbage leaves), polenta, and sour cream. The cheese was so fresh. It had the texture of tofu or feta and tasted like a combination of mild feta and goat's cheese. Everything provided had been made by our host, Maria. Another item on the table was homemade tuica, a traditional Romanian plum brandy. I was unable to try it but according to my peers, it set your throat on fire. I was so impressed by how accommodating and attentive our hostess was. She was so welcoming and eager to please us.
Our tour guide, Anita, then came out in traditional dress of the Maramures region. It was stunningly beautiful. Maria communicated that she would be willing to allow us to try the dress ourselves if interested. Four of us went with Maria and had the opportunity to wear the traditional dress. It was an incredible experience. I worried that our laughter might be offensive to Maria. I know that, at least for me, my laughter was out of joy of the experience and not because I found the dress or experience funny. I wish that I could purchase one traditional outfit to bring home, but they are very expensive, around 1,000 lei. Anita also demonstrated to us how Maria makes all her handicrafts using the loom. It was so fascinating to watch how time consuming it is to make one small scarf. The patience it must take!
I slept very peacefully that night in the 70s porn room with the crisp country night wind gently blowing into the room.
Maybe you should have picked up one of those looms while you were there. It might improve your knitting speed. :)
ReplyDeleteYea for color! What did you eat exactly? Completely surprised you have not been glutened yet.
ReplyDelete70s porn room ~ that must have been interesting. I know how you just love the wall coverings/surrounds when we attempt to pick out timeshares.
I love the bunnies ~ that we can have at the apartment! :)
Happy birthday Paco!!! I know I am a day late. I was nursing one hell of a hangover. I owe you dinner when I get back. Where do you want to go?
ReplyDeleteI ate cheese, and cucumbers, and cheese, and cucumbers :) Oh and actually I could have the polenta. It was really really good. You eat it with some sour cream. Their sour cream tastes quite different from our version. It tastes somewhat bitter, sour, and smoked. I think there are enough animals for you to take care of when I'm out of the country! Be careful what you ask for.