Budapest, Day 19

I journeyed to Gellert Baths in Gellert-hegy, and was determined to put away my anxiety about being able to successfully navigate myself through the procedures of bathing in a thermal bath. First, I paid and was given what looked like a watch to wear on my wrist, but it had no watch face, instead it was a rounded surface. Next, I had to find the entrance, and that took a few tries and asking questions. Then, it was finding the rental desk on how to rent a locker and towels. I successfully completed this by following some people who appeared to know what they were doing. I was feeling quite confident after navigating locker rentals... and then I accidentally walked into the men's locker room. NOTHING IS LABELED!!!! I had no idea where to go, in what direction the different pools were - I was so confused! I managed to find a locker assistant, get a locker, and change into my bathing costume. I first entered the 30C inside thermal bath that sits in this gorgeous room (and it was also the only photo I was able to take).

I then asked if there were other thermal baths and gave up trying to find them when I again walked into another part of the men's locker room! I ended up on the outside deck, and found the sauna. It was so very hot that I didn't last very long and was sweating profusely when I left. I headed over to the 26C wave pool. I wondered why there were railings all along the sides of the pool. The waves began, gently at first, and then increased in tensity. I soon found out why the railings are needed - the waves get so large that if you don't hold on, you will go under or go crashing backwards into someone else. The waves were stronger and bigger than ones I've experienced at the beach. I couldn't believe that all these parents would although their small children in such a turbulent pool.

After about half an hour of being beaten by waves, I found an outside thermal pool. It was a lovely 30C, and I sat soaking for close to an hour, feeling very relaxed and refreshed, and so not wanting to do anything else for the rest of the day. When I got back to the hotel, I did some research on Gellert baths and discovered that there were an additional 13 indoor thermal baths (some single sex only) that I never managed to find. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to come back.

I ventured across the street to Szikla-templom (Cave Church) which dates to 1256 and was founded by monks of the Pauline order. Masses are still today conducted by Pauline monks in pure white robes. The church was literally built into the side of a cave. It was fascinating to look inside. Szikla-templom wins my favourite church of Budapest award for sure.

I then headed up to Margit-sziget - there was a whole lot of pedestrian traffic on Margit hid that made things quite claustrophobic. I was able to find what I wanted to see: the Millenial Monument, Hajos Alfred Pool,  ruins of a late 13th century Franciscan church and a Japanese Garden.

And then I started getting a little creative with the camera and got some great shots.

And guess where I ate tonight? Yes, Bombay Express - I had some delicious yellow dal and basmati rice. There was a butt grabbing incident by two overweight unattractive men. I turned around and said "That's not very polite at all. One of these days, after doing that, you're going to get punched in the face and you'll think of me." What I really would have liked to have said was "I'm very sorry that you're so fat and ugly that you have to resort to inappropriately groping at women because you can't get laid." I didn't want KC to get a phone call from the police that I had been arrested!

This trip has been an absolutely amazing experience, and I'm so glad that I was able to do this. Who knows what the future will hold for me, but I certainly plan on traveling the world to experience other cultures. I felt so at home in Budapest once I felt comfortable navigating the city. Someone asked me why I wasn't going to Prague instead. I'm glad I did, because I feel that Budapest is a beautiful old city which enthusiastically supports the arts and culture, and has a great energy and vibe. I am so glad I came, and I can't believe how many different things I visited and what I've done in such a short timeframe. I do hope to get back to Budapest one of these days for a second go at the baths, and to visit some more museums that I just didn't have the time to visit.

I am ready to go home. I miss my cats, I miss my bed, and I miss my friends. I'm so excited that my parents will be meeting me at the airport tomorrow evening. That is such a blessing.

Well, thank you readers, for reading my blog and participating when you could or had something interesting to say. It has certainly been invaluable to me in not feeling so homesick.

Accommodatings in Budapest

My very swanky hotel room!

Budapest, Day 18

Today's mission was to explore Buda, specifically Varnegyed (Castle Districit). I set out to see a few things in Northern Pest (Lipotvaros and Ujlipotvaros) before crossing over Lanchid into Buda. I visited such sites as Szabadsag Ter (Soviet Army Memorial

the infamous Batthyány Örökmécses (Eternal Flame):

Orszaghaz (Parliament)

I was very disappointed to discover that the Holocaust Memorial on the side of the Duna has been flooded, so therefore the memorial is submerged! I paraded up and down Szechenyi Rakpart hoping to get a glimpse of a least a bit of a cast iron shoe, but no such luck. It just means that I will have to return to Budapest at some point in the future - and this time with more room in my suitcase for shopping!

I walked across Lanchid into Clark Adam Ter. The bridge is quite beautiful in its construction.You can also get some good views while walking across as well.

The next bit of my travels was a little confusing, to say the least. I decided that I would like to look at yet another church, Szent Anna templom. At some point, I'm going to count all the churches that I have visited in the last 4 days as it's been quite a lot.

So, seeing as I was way north of the funicular, as well as north of the other entrance to Varnegyed, I decided to enter through the Viena Gate. God forbid I ever do anything easy. I had quite the time trying to find these damn stairs.

But let me tell you, once I walked through the Vienna gate and located the Zenetorteneti Muzeum (Music History Museum), it was all worth it. The museum, although small, had some great items, including several square pianos, a piano forte, and even a positiv organ. The best part was discovering that some of the Kodaly estate was on display for a special exhibit - so I didn't go to Budapest without some Kodaly in my experience!

So I lost a little self-control and played the Bosendorfer - hey it didn't have a key protector!!!! I got yelled at - hah!

Here are some of my favourite places on Varnegyed:

Yet another church - Szent Matyas Templom

 Buda Palota was a stunning palace, but how huge it was!! What could the royal family have done with all that space, really ???

I had a tour of Sziklakorhaz (Hospital in the Rock), which was a functional hospital during WWII and later a nuclear bunker during the 1950s. Unforunately, we were not allowed to take pictures. The hospital was still as it was in the 1950s. There was lots and lots of old equipment, medical supplies, generators, gas masks, etc. There was even an old WWII air raid warning siren, which we were allowed to try. It was a great tour, and definitely something I would recommend to anyone in the medical field should you visit Budapest.

One of my favourite architectural structures is Halaszbastya (Fishermen's Bastion), and there were even musicians serenading tourists during their visit.

I headed back to Andrussy ut to grab dinner at my staple, Bombay Express. This time I had wonderful Chana Masala and Indian seasoned vegetables over Basmati Rice. Apparently, I am going to live off of Indian food while I'm here, although I'm certainly not complaining.

The ballet performed at the State Opera House "In the Vortex" was 5 short ballets. The first ballet I did not find very interesting but after the second and third intermissions I was almost moved to tears. The choreography of the last 4 pieces were innovative, powerful,  and very technically difficult. One ballet even incorporated the sounds of thunder while the two dancers, one man and one woman, incorporated the use of a small table into the performance. My favourite piece was Philip Glass at the very end. A rain storm was simulated on stage - including a severe rainstorm ON the stage. I'm still trying to figure out how they rigged that. All five pieces were about love - the good and the bad about love. I must admit that by the last ballet, I had a few tears streaming down my face. If the ballet should ever come to the states, I would drop everything in a heartbeat to see it again.

Oh, and by the way, apparently I either look Hungarian or seem very much at home here. People keep stop asking me for directions! Sometimes I am able to help, and sometimes I'm not - all in magyar.

Budapest, Day 17

I have been walking all over Pest the last two days as I don't see there being much point in taking public transportation if I'd like to experience the city. I walked allllll the way to Kerepsi temeto (Kerepsi cemetery), and it did not disappoint. The cemetery is still in use today, so there is a huge range of types of grave markers and the ages. The Arkadsor is an amazing burial site in art nouveau style. There are many famous people buried there (Blaha Lujza, Jokai Mor, and Antall Jozesf), and a very moving memorial called Munkasmozgalmi panteon - Pantheon of the Working Class movement. I really wish that I had more time to explore the cemetery and to take more pictures, but I wanted to successfully complete everything on my agenda for the day. It's a great cemetery, and ties with Laurel Hill Cemetery for my favourite cemetery (besides the Merry Cemetery of course).

I visited Kegyeleti Muzeum, a museum of Hungarian burial practices - everything from mourning clothes and coffins to horse-drawn hearses.

I'm also beginning to think that I should travel the world and write a book about the different restroom facilities. Here are two interesting restroom experiences I had.

Holocaust Emlekkozpont (Holocaust Museum) had a very powerful and impacting exhibit. The name of the exhibit was from oppression to genocide. The exhibit included evidence from the holocaust including laws, political oppression, timeline, personal articles, camp uniforms, video, and written accounts of survivors. It was an incredibly moving experience, especially video showing concentration camp prisoners being rescued. I started tearing from all the upsetting images on how skinny survivors were, and the piles upon piles of dead bodies.

Naturally after experiencing something very upsetting, I went shopping along Raday utca. There were artsy boutiques and little cafes and bars. It was quite breathtaking, and there were certainly a LOT less tourists than Vaci Utca.

I also ventured into Nagycsarnok (Great Market Hall) and bought a few items, conducting the transactions in Hungarian. I was so proud of myself! I bought some strawberries, desperately hoping that they would uphold to Romanian standards. WRONG! I was very disappointed, but they're still more flavourful than in the US.

The Rough Guide to Budapest spoke about an eclectic shopping centre, Parisi Udvar, not far from Fereciek Tere. Eclectic isn't the word for it. There were only a few shops in a huge shopping centre, that looked like it should be a church and not an arcade or mall. Very beautiful, but strange nonetheless.

After that, I headed towards northern Pest along the banks of the Danu. I visited Gresham Polata (Gresham Palace) in Roosevelt ter, down Zrinyi Utca to Szent Istvan-Bazilika (St. Stephen's Basilica).

From there, I walked all the way up Andrassy ut to Hosok tere. It's a beautiful square with two museums flanking the famous Ezeréves emlékmű (Millenary Monument) in the middle of the square.

I headed to the zoo, and had a very difficult time getting out of the zoo when it closed. Why you ask? Because the zoo map was in magyar, not angolol, and to complicate matters even further, the zoo was under heavy construction and exhibits had been moved. I had a very difficult time finding anything in that place. However, they had some really good exhibits and the animals appeared to be cared for well. Here are some of my favourite photos:

After finally finding the exit of the zoo, I made my way towards Vajdahunyad Castle. It's an absolutely gorgeous castle, and I just couldn't help wondering to myself - did you really need all that space? Really??? Maybe that's why the divorce rate was lower back then - you never saw your spouse because your house was too big.

By this point, I could barely drag my feet enough to move, so I head back towards the hotel and decided to eat dinner at one of my researched spots, Bombay Express. It's fast-food indian style. It's like a cafeteria. You go in and get a tray, and then you make your selection and they serve from steaming hot trays of different dishes. You then choose your drink and pay. I had basmati rice and mixed vegetable curry with paneer. Delicious!! My stomach was not very happy after ingesting all that food because, I'm pretty sure, that was the biggest meal I've had in almost 3 weeks!

Budapest, Day 16

If you're going to attempt to buy someone, could you please wait until after 8am and I've at least had a cup of coffee? Yes, at the Cluj gara this morning, I was approached 3 times by the same young man. He must have been in his 20s, and he asked me where I was from, what I was doing, etc. I continually kept walking away from him and found a place to sit on the platform with other people around. I'm not going to lie - that was pretty scary. My passport has been checked three times since we crossed teh Hungarian border. I would have thought one time would have sufficed! I was so excited to use my Hungarian!!

I showered and got onto the streets of Budapest as quickly as I could. The first stop was Allami Operhaz, the State Opera House. I used my Hungarian and purchased tickets to the Saturday night premiere of In the Vortex, a modern ballet to be performed by the Hungarian National Ballet. I am so confused by the 226 fiorent to 1 dollar.

Next was my failed attempt to visit Kodaly Emlekmuzeum - the building is under renovation so the museum is not open. I was very disappointed but I quickly continued up Andrassy ut to Liszt Ferenc Emlekmuzeum. I am in music heaven here!!! The museum was quite small, but a stunning collection. One of Liszt's composing desks was there - with his small built in 3 octave keyboard. It was magical seeing where some of my favourite piano pieces were written. Now, for a piano geek like myself, I really appreciated the displays of numerous beautiful, old, and famous pianos: many Chickering & Sons, a Mason & Hamlin Organ, Bosendorfer, and a dual organ by Pere & Hils with the upper piano by Erard.

I did so much on Thursday evening:

Liszt Ferenc Ter

Evangélikus templom in Deak ter

 Vorosmarty Ter

 Kiskiralylany-szobor (Little Princess) in Vigado ter

 Belvarosi Templom, where I sat and listened to the organ during a service

 An interesting public WC

Szent Mihály Templom where I heard 5 men perform Renaissance madrigals a cappella

And the infamous Fischer Rezi, Fisher Girl Statue on Vaci Utca